Menu
Login
I spent a small fortune in 2000 with Andersen Windows on a new home built the same year. I just found [1/13/13] that 10 of the double hung windows in the home had rot on the inside wood-not the outside-all in the lower left corner of the lower sash. I contacted Andersen today to find out that the windows were manufactured in 1999 and therefore their warranty on the windows is only ten year-20 years on the glass- therefore there is no fix for these rotting windown other than to replace them at my cost. There seems to be a multitude of complaints ont he net about rotting Andersen windows and there is a law office out of California advertising for people to seek joing a class action lawsuit against Andersen for these windows. I have Andersen casement windows and they are not rotting and they work fine. The double hung windows are essentially junk and all in the same location. The other writings on the net indicate that the problem is how the window is constructed in allowing a water leak from the outside into the inside and therefore the rot occurring on the inside and not on the outside. The people at Andersen are polite but of no help.
Larson Manufacturing
51 reviews
PGT Custom Windows + Doors
6 reviews
Sierra Pacific Windows
5 reviews
Castle Windows
13 reviews
Dunraven Windows
20 reviews
1. I also have approx (30) 30x76 double hung windows that have rotted top & bottom sash. They were purchased in 1989. The only thing that's holding some frames together, is it's poly coating. There has been no engineering or component changes in Andersen's 400-series windows. They have know about the rotting problem since 1995...
2. Every window & door appears to have a bad SUN-II Low-e High Performance inner film. During certain times of the day, the window & door glazings look spotted/dirty. (There's a 20-year guarantee on the glazing.)
3. I purchased (7) expensive Andersen doors having bright-brass hardware. The outside hardware is now tarnished dark brown. Andersen wants $1500 for new hardware. All the (21) door hinges were defective and I had to replacement them myself. Then the door's lower aluminum kick panels have started to peal.
My house is covered with brick. So replacing the windows with another brand would require removing tons of now discontinued brick. So it appears that I'm stuck with buying more Andersen windows and replacing them every 13-15 years at a cost of approx $12, 000. This really doesn't say much for the quality of Andersen products...
I have the same problem. The wood Anderson windows I have were made in 1999 and get wet on the interior wood when it rains (it is starting to rot). I took off the "glazing bead" (I think that is the correct term) that seals the outside glass from the wood. It was wet underneath and therefore was failing. I called Anderson and they pretended to care and asked for pictures. I took the time to take pictures and email them simply to find out the were not going to do anything. They first told me it was from condensation. Then after I looked into it and figured out it was leaking from the outside they said it wasn't under warranty. My first thought when I saw the leaking glazing bead was that it was a very poor design. I'm not sure how they thought it would last. That is probably why they went with a 10 year warranty rather than 20 on the non glass components.
I called Andersen to ask them to explain why I have to be careful not to put too much foam in the bottom of the double hung windows so that any rain that seeps through will go out. OUT? Out Where? the entire bottom of the window where they say
I should leave it open and only put foam 1" into the this pace is WOOD. They are using WOOD to drain the water which may seep through? God help me. Do you think, if I paint this area you are saying is rotting, with some sort of exterior paint or sealer, this rotting can be avoided.? Sorry for your trouble. I get it.
Rotting wood and window deterioration on 2 of my windows. We replaced all of the windows in our house with Andersen windows thinking that they were the best quality on the market at that time. Was I wrong?
new windows less then year old every am the windows are steam and wet, what is the cause?
Shut up. Your "what is the cause" repetitive phrase is getting on my nerves.
I am interested in starting a class action lawsuit in Michigan against Andersen Windows. I believe they knowingly sold us faulty windows. We purchased 400 series tilt wash vinyl clad windows. All have rotted. Andersen refused to answer our calls. Finally after 8 years they final sent someone out to blame us for the windows. I cannot afford to replace the rotted windows. I have spoken to three other families in Michigan experiencing the same problem. Please help us. Call [protected] Chad
Of the 40 windows in my home I to have experienced the same rotting problem in 8 windows in 5 different rooms all double hung bottom lower left corner. We built the home in 96 moved in in 97. Local rep. no show< I guess the company has informed him don't because of the law suits. Would love to take pics and offered our situation to any suit allowing us to tag along. AS of now we will have to systematiclly replace the defective windows and carry forward, gauranteed we will not entertain offers from Andersen replacement .We will shop for locals, Pella, ect. If anyone has a suit going in Ohio let us know or if we can be party to any ongoing suit, let us know if we can legally be admitted. Thank You for your time.
8 rotting windows of 40 in the house, in lower left corner of double hung windows. 5 different rooms
I have 27 Andersen double-hung, tilt windows purchased in 1992. I, too, have the problem with wood rot on the lower portion of many of the sashes. I first noticed a major problem with one sash 3 years ago. I purchased a new sash from Andersen for $180 and installed it myself. I now realize that many more of the wooden, vinyl-clad sashes are deteriorating. When replacing the first sash, I was informed by Andersen that the wood was not warrantied only the glass. I did have one window which had leaked and condensation was between the glass. Andersen readily replaced that sash at no cost to me mailing me the replacement which I installed easily. My problem now is that I simply cannot afford to replace all the rotten sashes at $180 a piece. If I go with replacement windows, I will try a different brand. I am disappointed with the performance of these windows. I thought I was buying the best.
Recently purchased a home in NC with about 65 double hung Andersen 400 series tilt windows. On at least 7 of the windows, the INSIDE of the lower rail on the lower sash becomes wet after a short amount of rain. It seems to happen primarily on the right side of all the windows (from inside the house). The wood is obviously in the early stages of rot. I've contacted Andersen about the matter. They initially seemed concerned, asking me to document all the window sizes, collect the information off the window about window specifics, take pictures, and forward all the information to them. After all of that, they promptly called back to inform me that the 10 year window warranty had just expired and I was out of luck. There is no correlation with window location or room and the rotting of the window. It is totally random.
I have Andersen Vinyl Clad windows (2002) that are rotting. It has been going on longer than even I knew about because the vinyl acts as a band aid that keeps you from seeing the wood is rotting until it finally is so bad you can't help but notice it. There are several other windows that the sash is not rotting yet, but the window seals are coming apart and bucking up. I have tried to get a rep out to look at them, but all I get is "they are over ten years old"...they were not when the problem started. Basically you pay for what is supposed to be top quality windows and you get something that falls apart. The Company does not care about its customers or product, otherwise they would see from all the same type issues that there is a defect and would fix the issues. I used to be in the construction and remodeling business and never had this kind of trouble out of "lesser" made windows.
I have the same problem my house was built in 97 and my anderson 400 double hung windows are rotting u could stick your finger through bottom of bottom sash wood 2 windows are rotting and the others are starting to do the same thing i can see it on the inside of the windows ive complained since they were new about moisture problems anderson says my fault .As u can see ive tried to fix them doesnt work what a joke i could post pictures all day i have 16 windows in my house not all are rotting or started yet, only 10 unbelievable
My windows look exactly like these. Exactly where does the water penetrate on the outside? Is there any caulking that could possibly be done to slow or stop it? One windows is especially bad. Thanks
I have 20 + windows and 2 Andersen doors (considered special as north facing) in my house. I'm sad to say these Andersen products weren't worth bringing home. These items were considered the best available. Well, that's a bunch of hype, we have rotting wood in our windows on the north side and separation of the doors exterior lamanent causing water to enter the house. I've been replacing lower sashes as I can afford...but it's time Andersen stood up for their poorly made products and give us some discounts on replacement windows and doors. I expect Andersen to stand behind your products.
I can't believe Andersen's stand on a warranty problem. I'm also alerting everyone about this company's attitude toward their customers and warning everyone about their products.
Andersen's products and warranty program.
J. Fred Swain
570 Country Estates
Columbia N.C. 27925
< colonel501@embarqmail.com >
I have a TK home built in north central IN in 1995 with double hung Andersen windows. Several have rot in the lower left window frames. 'They will soon be so bad as to fall apart. The lower frame rail came loose on one and another has a large chunck of rotted wood that just popped off one day. Andersen is going to be in trouble for this.
I too have rotting wood behind the plastic frames in my 1987 Anderson windows of my home in Maryland. Not only that, last month I changed the siding and noticed that the some of the 2x4 studs under two windows had some rot on them, although the structure is still sound. the siding installer is convinced the problem is with the windows as there is Tyvek and a second layer of foam insulation behind the siding. I appears adding storm windows at $250 a piece and adding new sashes did not completely solve the problem. I feel strongly that Anderson should take responsibility and solve this problem for us.
i have 33 Anderson double hung windows, we just had renewal by Anderson out and the quote to replace is 2200.00 per window..i have 11 rotted sashes now and i've already repaired 2. Anderson just states it's a 10 year warranty. Is there any class action suit in Illinois?
I just finished repairing 10 anderson double hung windows purchased in 1994. Same problem. Lower wooden sash right-hand corner (from the ouside looking in) . I too called anderson and they said the warrenty has expired. I would be happy to join a lawsuit as it is obvious that I am not the only one having this problem but it has to do with a defective design. I am pretty certain that my repairs will not last.
I am a class action work consultant and fenestration (window and door) expert witness. Please view my website at
www.windowdoorlawsuit.com.
Many thanks,
Matthew Roetter, Pres.
Roetter Window and Door Company, Inc.
[protected]
classactionig@aol.com
We built our house in 1994. Nearly all of our tilt-in Anderson double-hung windows have rot in the lower left corner. The water is coming in at the bottom pivot pin in the lower sash. We have not attempted to contact Anderson as the warranty has run out, but if this is a widespread problem, I would consider joining a class-action suit. We have at least 35 windows. Email karen@homeports.org.
Same problem here with rotting windows. The least Andersen could do is sell us replacements at cost. I know they wont because they are just another greedy company.
Greg
We would gladly add our names to the list of complaints. Our house was built in 1999 all brick. We have actually had a representative look at our windows a couple of times. One they had no clue and two they would check into it. That has been several years now. We continue to call buy nothing happens. Hell yeah the warranties are up because although you start telling them of the problem they never respond and are without the knowledge to fix it. We have let others who are building know that they may be a good product now but you best know a representative because once they are in there gone. We have a brick home with 25 windows 2 sections with 4 casement windows each. The only thing holding the window in is the frame work. I will keep this site for any updates. Thank you so much to those who have shared there problem and aggravation. What do we need to do to get on board with the class action suit
We built our house in 2003. Andersen double hung windows series 200 were installed. I now too have found that the bottom sash is rotting away after 16 years. I called Andersen and they have claimed it is the window warranty and is not covered. The window has a 20 year warranty. This should not be warrantee under the window. The glass in the double pane window is clear and the seal has not been broken. That is what should be covered under the glass warranty. The frame of the window should be covered under the 20 years. Naturally, Andersen does not agree and wants to charge me $330.75 for the lower sash. That is crazy, I can buy a lifetime window for just a little more and not have this issue. Can't win against a large company that will not stand behind its product.
If you ever open one of these double hung windows when it has been raining you are likely to find the entire bottom of the wood sash is wet from water wicking under the cladding and covering the aluminum clad frame. I replaced 8 of the worst windows but have an additional 19 windows that will need replaced in the next 2 to 3 years. Ours were purchased new in 1998. Our builder at that time knew Anderson windows had this same problem but supposedly they had rectified the problem. That makes this sound like negligence to me. When you know there is a problem and you don't fix it but continue to sell the same defective windows?
I've got the same thing. Mostly with windows on the northwest side of my house, where the wind and rain blow pretty hard. I have been repairing them with JB Weld KwikWood, which is an epoxy mixture. First I dig out all the rotted wood. Then I let it dry out well, and use wood hardener to stabilize what is there. When it seems solid, I use layers of KwikWood to build up the surfaces. Obviously this takes days to do correctly, and the sash is out during that time. I have plywood fillers that I use to close the window opening while I work on the sash. The plywood looks bad, but it is temporary.
MikeD asked if caulk will help. It will, but only after you have removed all the rot and fixed the sash properly. Caulk carefully, using clear caulk, on all those slots and joints on the outside of the sash. The sash design is not that great, leaving large gaps around the glazing bead. Driving rain is going to get into there, and will cause rot. Why did they design it this way? Darned if I know. So seal it up! Just don't seal any moisture inside, or it will rot again.
I've lost count on how many I have fixed. 26, I think. Take your time, use good materials, and seal it up so water cannot seep inside the glazing beads. I am not happy about having to do this on windows that are (only) twenty years old. But for $20 worth of material, and a lot of my time, I can get them into good shape again. While I have a sash out, I replace the weatherstripping too. Good luck, my fellow sufferers.
Hello sir, i read your post and would like to know how you sealed up the glazing bead sites? Just applied caulk on top ? What material did you use? How often would you repeat? What about the 3 different weatherstrips they are advising i replace?
My contact is juthu@hotmail.com
From bella above
We are in the process of repairing our windows similar method as Waterview. I believe part of the problem is the weather-stripping type used by Anderson for their windows. When we pulled it out, it was soaking wet and seemed to absorb water like a sponge. We are going to try replacing all with a rubber weather-stripping which may help some, but I am betting the window design is the main problem.
Hi. I had the same deal. A wet sponge was hiding in my window! I took them out. Andersen will send me this little strip, but it will cost $22 for shipping. I decided to find a silicon strip or something to stick back in that groove. Or how about flexible or removable caulk? What will work? Obviously not foam sponge covered in some cheap vinyl.
I have multiple 200 and 400 series windows in a recently purchased home where the wood sashes are deteriorating from the inside out. This is clearly a manufacturing issue as it is on the upper sashes as well (so not in a moisture collection location like the lower sash). If Anderson is not willing to stand behind their product, they must be prepared to abandon a significant clientele and any hope of return business. There is black mold that comes back, even after cleaning /sanding. This is a health safety issue, directly related to a manufacturing defect.
I have this very same thing happening in the front window of my house that was built in 2005. Andersen 400 windows were recommended by the builder and this I noticed last year when my daughter moved out of that bedroom! It is only on the INSIDE?
i have had this problem in many of my lower sashes also my house was built in 1997 not every window has the problem but most of them i have 26 tilt wash windows in my house when i contacted anderson a few years back they had expressed the windows were out of warranty i remember when they installed some of the sashes had a distinct black line in the same area where they are now rotted they would not tell me what is was but sent me new ones. has anyone tried to take them to court yet.
bruce remer michigan
My name is Chad K, ( KallioinenElectric@gmail.com ). Built 2006. 400 series double hung tilt. Minnesota factory. CIG-2.8 1-06 . 16 in total, plus 2 x sliding patio. All rotted by 2007. In disrepair with, (and no-exaggeration), mushrooms fruiting on more then one. Vented home with humidity regulation system, (even before Michigan’s mandate deeming such systems mandatory ). Reputable contractor now 26 years, 2113 homes built or co-built in total between them. 600+ positive on Angie (you see where I’m going w/this)...? Home humidity tested, and approved by 3 of 4 test sources. Three of whom consider 31% humidity well within structural standards and therefore “...IN CONCLUSION, IT IS THIS INSPECTORS PROFESSIONAL OPINION THAT THE INTERIOR HUMIDITY RECORDED IS NOT EXTREME ENOUGH TO QUALIFY AS A CANDIDATE IN THE DEGRADATION AND ULTIMATE CAUSE OF STRUCTURAL FAILURE OF THE WINDOW/WINDOWS IN QUESTION”. And we don’t have to guess who the minority vote belongs to. But after several visits, and even more accusations, not one thing was offered. I am a single father of one. I work hard but I am by no means financially “well off”. Quite the opposite and I’m not ashamed to admit it. Anyone in my shoes will tell you that just being able to build a home for your family at 23 is more than enough to be proud and thankful for. And as horrible as I feel about what those unhealthy, atrociously hazardous window are probably responsible for, in reference to my now eight year olds many health issues (mostly upper respiratory). I simply couldn’t afford to buy new windows that early into my mortgage. I hope no one has to feel that. What should be my second proudest accomplishment is forever stained with a constant reminder that I’m just too small to fight a corporation. Even if it meant the health of the ones I care for the most. I know that is going to sounds silly, or over the top to some of the people who read this. But I hope that’s because you aren’t in our situation, and by all means, purchase a set, you can see for yourself.
Same issues for me. Purchase the "upgrade" Andersen 400 series windows when we built our house in late 2004. Condensation issues ever since and complained multiple times throughout the years with ridiculous responses. I have pics and details and would love to be part of the class action.
I have observed this problem for about 10 years. My house was built in 1998 and this is the first time I have had windows that are constructed with an engineering flaw that results in the frames rotting out. My shock was when I found out that the frames are out of warranty at the 10 year mark. I would like to know exactly what the failure mode is. The first time I found ONE of these rotten frames, I had the local Andersen expert (technician) come and do the removal of the sash and show me how to do it. That was ten years ago, way before this blog. He told me two of his observations. One was the compression seal on the lower sash rail, and the need to replace that material every so often ... maybe every 5 years. He said the failure mode was air leaking across the sill leading to condensation that triggers the rot. Another is to make certain that the window is locked and tight during the winter. There is a lock shim that is used to increase the ability of the lock to exert pressure on the upper jamb and on the sill. I recently checked some of my windows and I can tell that some of them are not snug enough when locked. They just do NOT feel right. Now I am wondering if there is some weather strip retrofit that can be added to the upper sash channel to help improve the snug fit.
I have been struggling with this issue for years, and only discovered this blog yesterday. I would like to have the specs for all of he window frame parts. If someone had the drawings for the parts, it would be easy to manufacture a new horizontal piece for the lower sash which seems like the most frequently rotten part of the window. Or better yet, Anderson should sell us the frame replacement parts.
Thank your for having this blog. There must be thousands of homeowners around the country struggling with this problem. I would love to see the engineering and/or quality control report that details all the failure modes that result in this issue. I even have a couple of windows that you can eyeball the fit at the sill on the outside, and you just know that it is not square. My assessment is must be at least 4 different failure modes that are contributing to the issue of rotting frames.
Where is the technical bulletin that tells the owner what to do? If this was happening with my car, there would be a tech bulletin from the manufacturer.
Steve
Lancaster, PA
shfranz@gmail.com
Here's one more: house built in 1995, builder insisted on andersen windows. 4 now have rot beginning at corners, and now because of the moisture have new termite infestation at (hopefully ) on window frame. I have the wood hardener etc to fix the rotting wood, but if there is moisture under the vinyl cladding, then it would only be a bandaid over impending disaster as the south is termite land. It really sounds as though a class action is viable here. Please include me in notification! J.A. Shillito, Mount Pleasant SC
Juthu@hotmail.com
This is an update to the posting of Sept. 07, 2020. I ordered a new sash and found out that the weather strip for the upper and lower rails has been changed. The New weatherstrip is part number 9181571. I got 8 of them after talking to customer service. It was a very interesting conversation about the weather strip that is totally redesigned. It is now hollow and it is changed from white to black. The problem now is that they want too much money for it: $7.00 each piece. So it is $14.00 to retrofit the top and the bottom rails.
So I have now retrofit a number of my windows. In the process of doing the weatherstrip, my conclusion is that the corner joints of the sashes constructed for my house in 1998 did not have the corner joints sufficiently primed, resulting in any water getting in reached the end grain and rotting it out. So the sashes that I worked on got a dose of Zinsser oil based bond coat
Hi, in 2007, I bought a 1998-built home with Anderson 200 wood double-hung windows. I didn't realize until 2009 (just 1 year out of warranty) that several of the lower sashes were rotting (black wood at the inside corners of bottom sash and rot along horizontal surface of sash where it hits sill). The sashes rotted so much that as I raised some of the windows, the wood on the bottom sash splintered and ripped off. I've now had to replace 8 bottom sashes at my own cost. The cost for the replacement bottom sashes has been skyrocketing on Andersen.com. I live in Kentucky and would love to be informed of any class action lawsuit.
So many problems. Home built in 2000. Water damage to window sills (inside!).
Wood rot behind jambs. Rotten bottom sashes. Failed gasket that soaks up and holds water.
Replaced some sashes in 2015. One of those is rotten again. The problem will keep occurring. The window has a flawed design. It traps water. We have double hung windows with the grids between the glass.
We have 13 windows. We would have to replace them all with a different design.
Hi, I am with you all, and I need help before the windows need to be replaced. Can anyone give me some advice? The water appears to be coming in the bottom of the closed window in wet, windy weather. I am hardening and trying to fix the rotten wood, which isn't terribly extensive yet, but after that I would like to do the most I can to protect the windows. I removed the water-soaked foam "weather strips." I would like to replace them with something better (silicon tube, caulk?). But I feel that since this strip is in the middle of the bottom of the window, I should adhere another strip that will block the water before it gets to the replaced weatherstrip, like another strip of silicon. Also, I actually bought some gorilla waterproof clear tape and thought I might wrap it along the bottom edge of the window so the water doesn't move from the cladding to the wood so easily. Can someone help? Thanks so much!
Built my home in 1994 and have the same rotting problem on about 30 double hung window bottom sashes. Anderson relayed there is nothing they can do since warranty expired. Seems like a defective product should be made whole by a reputable manufacturer. Curious if there is a class action suit anywhere to get this resolved. I would be on board.
Here Jerry. please right your senator below and paste this...
...Andersen Windows — Rotting wood in the windows
~~~your link to the senator is below https://www.casey.senate.gov/contact
My name is Chad K, ( KallioinenElectric@gmail.com ). Built 2006. 400 series double hung tilt. Minnesota factory. CIG-2.8 1-06 . 16 in total, plus 2 x sliding patio. All rotted by 2007. In disrepair with, (and no-exaggeration), mushrooms fruiting on more then one. Vented home with humidity regulation system, (even before Michigan’s mandate deeming such systems mandatory ). Reputable contractor now 26 years, 2113 homes built or co-built in total between them. 600+ positive on Angie (you see where I’m going w/this)...? Home humidity tested, and approved by 3 of 4 test sources. Three of whom consider 31% humidity well within structural standards and therefore “...IN CONCLUSION, IT IS THIS INSPECTORS PROFESSIONAL OPINION THAT THE INTERIOR HUMIDITY RECORDED IS NOT EXTREME ENOUGH TO QUALIFY AS A CANDIDATE IN THE DEGRADATION AND ULTIMATE CAUSE OF STRUCTURAL FAILURE OF THE WINDOW/WINDOWS IN QUESTION”. And we don’t have to guess who the minority vote belongs to. But after several visits, and even more accusations, not one thing was offered. I am a single father of one. I work hard but I am by no means financially “well off”. Quite the opposite and I’m not ashamed to admit it. Anyone in my shoes will tell you that just being able to build a home for your family at 23 is more than enough to be proud and thankful for. And as horrible as I feel about what those unhealthy, atrociously hazardous window are probably responsible for, in reference to my now eight year olds many health issues (mostly upper respiratory). I simply couldn’t afford to buy new windows that early into my mortgage. I hope no one has to feel that. What should be my second proudest accomplishment is forever stained with a constant reminder that I’m just too small to fight a corporation. Even if it meant the health of the ones I care for the most. I know that is going to sounds silly, or over the top to some of the people who read this. But I hope that’s because you aren’t in our situation, and by all means, purchase a set, you can see for yourself.
They only posted one of my pictures. I’m unsure why. If interested, I have many more. My daughter is out of town for two weeks so I used this opportunity to allow them to go unattended. But FYI, I’d never let them get that bad. Damn shame, use to be one hell of a great view. KallioinenElectric@gmail.com or [protected] I’d love it if my state had a C.A.L. I’d be all in.
Continuation (not all pictures posted) Ander-SIN
Same thing. Only one picture. Not even the right one. Please delete
Again...
Same home. Different company (Kolbe)...
Hi, its Chad again. This is my last resort. I recommend you all do the same and send this boardto your State representative. Cut and paste the post address and maybe we will get some answers after all these years. Sorry you all have to deal with this. O feel for you. Good Luck.